that depict the authors’ eclectic and international tastes.
A useful chapter shows how to skewer, roll, tie, truss or stuff the various birds
and cuts of meat, tricks of the butcher’s trade that will allow the amateur cook
to present dishes that look like they came from a professional shop.
The second half of the book is devoted to sausage, salami, potted meats, pâtés, terrines and more. Basic sausage recipes for poultry, pork, lamb and beef
are provided, followed by recipes for tantalizing classics like Oaxacan-style
Chorizo, Cotechino, Belgian Beer Sausage, Blood Sausage with Caramelized
Apples and Cognac, Bockwurst, Kolbász, and simple Hot Links. The art and
science of making salami is examined with instruction for turning out great
Cacciatorini, Saucisse Sec aux Herbes de Provence, Pepperoni, and Sbriciolona.
The recipes for the various pâtés, terrines and the like range from the relatively
simple but delicious Rabbit Rillettes to the four-day-long process of making
Headcheese. In between is a menu of bistro and trattoria favorites, including
Ciccioli, Oxtail Terrine, Duck Terrine with Brandied Prunes, Duck Liver Mousse
with Armagnac Cream, Veal and Chicken Galatine, a couple of ways to prepare
foie gras, and perhaps the world’s most seductive Meat Loaf.
A chapter on brined, cured and smoked meats reveals the secrets to all kinds
of delicious hams, hocks, chops, corned beef, pastrami, a hale and hearty
Choucroute Garni, pancetta, guanciale bresaola, bacon, pulled pork, and the
ultimate Croque Monsieur. Altogether, in addition to all the detailed instructions on handling meat, there are 125 outstanding recipes for all of the above,
lusciously and evocatively brought to life through the photography of Alex
Finally, because, as the authors admit, one cannot live by meat alone, there is
a section of accoutrement that includes all manner of pickled vegetables and
fruits, marinated olives, chutney, chowchow, mostarda, barbecue sauce, and
a trio of great bean dishes, all excellent accompaniments to the magnificent
meat creations throughout the book.
This is a book for the ages, a carnivore’s handbook and a how-to manual for
any aspiring charcuterie or salumi enthusiast. It is a book
to sell and to keep behind the counter in the charcuterie,
deli, or meat department. It’s a monumental achievement
from one of the Bay Area’s favorite food companies, and
when you’re out for the Winter Fancy Food Show, be sure
to stop in to visit its shops, one in San Francisco and one
in the town of Napa.